After departing our 5 star luxury hotel in Zagreb, we boarded a train which landed us in Ljubliana, Slovenia. Our hungry tummies took us straight to the Mcdonalds at the train station! Oh yes we did...Mcdonalds for lunch. We then rolled our way the few blocks to Hertz where we picked up our latest vehicle, a Hyundai. We zipped outta town, heading for the mountains, the Julian Alps. We made a quick stop ledBEtterled and Bohinj, two quite touristic (a word used frequently here but new to me) towns on the southern side of the alps. Both towns set on lakes with nice mountain views...but we were bound for the Soca River Valley so didn't linger long in these towns. The drive to Soca took us over Vrsic Pass, a very scenic pass crossing northward over the Julian Alps. One sign post on a pull out along the way revealed to us a face in the mountain. I love when I can find faces in rocks and was delighted to see this one. It looked a lot like picassos depiction of John Lennon. Anyway, as we zoomed over and down the other side of the pass, it began to rain and soon the mountain tops were blanketed in fog. We got to the Soca River just at dark and searched for the campsite that most suited us. We ended up at Camp Triglav. Triglav is the tallest mountain (2860ish m) in the Julian Alps and the name of the national park surrounding it. We quickly set up our tent in the rain and were happy, once again, to have our big blanket from Montenegro. We awoke to mountain views all around us. Soca is nestled right in the heart of the mountains so we spent our time in Soca doing some hiking and attempting to get as high as possible in those alps. Triglav was an unmet aspiration due to the rain but we did drive up to about 2000m and then hiked up Mangart (on the Italian border) until we were in the clouds (not to the top) at about 2300 or 2400m. The views were stunning, literally surrounded by mountains. A very rainy day inspired our short jaunt into Austria. We literally crossed the border, spotted a mall and entered the mall in search of food and a map of Austria so as to plot our next move. We didn't leave said mall for many hours due to a run in with an all you can eat sushi boat restaurant and some back to school shopping. I shopped while Jij read up on his Bengals using the free wi-fi. It's more fun to shop in other countries but I had to resist the slight urge to purchase the, I'm sure there's an official name for this type of ware but I can only describe it as the female version of lederhosen which was for sale at all the modern shops in the mall and surprisingly worn by many! After our stand at the mall we cruised back into Slovenia for the night at a hotel overlooking lake bled, with breakfast included and, best of all, free access to the indoor waterslide/hot tubs/ multiple swimming pools. Priceless! I realized that when I return to this part of the world I'd like to be properly equipped for outdoor activity (hiking, biking and/or climbing). I would spend some time here in Slovenia being out in the mountains and would then head for croatias beaches. On a side note, one of my favorite quirks of many of these countries is that they play what was popular music in the states in the late 80's through mid to late 90's. A genre of music that, if you know me you might know, I am quite fond of. As I sit here in this pizzeria typing on our (borrowed) iPod touch, November rain is pouring out of the speakers...probably soon to be followed by Dire Straits or Lionel Richie or Cyndi Lauper! I can't help but pause my typing at times to sing along. Today, or very early tomorrow morning I suppose, we catch our 2:18am train from Ljubliana to arrive in Venice at 7:15am...the Sofitel Venice (actually named Papodopoli Venezia) awaits us. It's august 6th, we will be home in 5 days! We are both excited to return home, we like our home, but we are also excited for what we will encounter in our final 5 days...

de Jesus and his beer glass-theiving lady friend in Dubrovnik

Long Haired Asian Endorses Central European Coastal Nation

ZAGREB- Jij de Jesus, an American traveler of Filipino descent, recently made an official statement regarding the country he will be leaving later today.

"I endorse Croatia!" stated de Jesus, as he sipped water from the elegant Karlovacko beer glass his lovely wife Claire had relocated from a caffe bar the night previous. When considering why he would make such a formal pronouncement of affection, de Jesus had little trouble listing the reasons for his endorsement.

"Beautiful pebbly beaches lapped by brilliant turquoise waters, fantastic historical and cultural sights, terra-cotta roofed Old Towns surrounded by marbled walls, phenomenally fresh seafood, lovely accomadation, from private apartments to beachside campings, a fun language to attempt to speak with the friendly locals. I could go on."

Narrowing the reasons to just one proved more difficult. "I can't choose one. But I can do two. Pivo and Hobotnitsa."
(To clarify, Pivo is the Croatian word for "beer", a frothy beverage that de Jesus seemed to consume at every waking moment, usually from a 2-liter bottle made of the lower grade plastics that one would expect to find in Europe, often on the marble steps of an old historic church or other building. Hobonitsa means "octopus," which became something of an obsession for the skinny, sun-darkened fellow. Whether hunting it in underwater environs with a snorkel mask and a stick, buying 5 kilos of it at the Sibenik Fresh Market, eating it deliciously fire-roasted "under the bell" prepared lovingly by Kasia's dad, or consuming it in a ceviche-esque preparation of Hobotnitsa salad, de Jesus simply could not get enough of the oshem-tentacled sea creature.)

In the the end, while he is sad to leave this lovely land, de Jesus knows that it is time to move on. "In an hour and a half, I'm catching a train to Ljubljana, capital of Slovenia and gateway to the Julian Alps." That leaves just enough time for 1 or 7 more pivos.

Hvala Hrvatska.

For the first time on this trip I am actually feeling legitimately sad to be leaving a place. I was momentarily sad to be leaving Istanbul but Croatia has an extra special place in my heart. Maybe its the reality of returning home to work looming just around the corner but I dont think so because I have a new job and new people to meet that I am excited about and looking forward to. I must just like Croatia THAT much. I guess that means Jij and I will have to return sometime :) We are off to spend our last Croatian night in Zagreb. I hear from a friend of mine that Zagreb is for zombies...I dont know what that means but I suppose Im about to find out! We are staying in the first 5 star hotel of our trip. The Regent Esplanade. We will be strolling in there toting (more like pulling) our recently acquired rolly suitcases. I have a rolly suitcase of sorts from every long trip abroad Ive ever been on. Maybe next time Ill just start the trip with the rolly suitcase in hopes of lessening my growing suitcase collection! We also just booked rental cars for both Slovenia AND Italy! As you can see we have clearly morphed into poshies :) On that note, I should probably go and buy something other than the 1 black dress that I have worn the ENTIRE trip so I can better fill my role as a poshie...after, of course, I have my latte. Ciao

Montenegro is a beautiful country...from coastal fjords to quaint little mountain towns, rolling green hills and expansive farmland. Unfortunately we were there during a cold, cloudy and rainy snap (forecasted to be a 2 week snap) and were not able to fully see and enjoy all the country had to offer. we were meant to go backpacking while in Montenegro but quickly realized we were far from prepared. It was so cold the first night sleeping beneath our dainty silk blankets that we slept in the car. The next day we bought a big, thick, fuzzy blanket but I was still skeptical that we would sleep warmly. As all illprepared people do, we made a plan...first we would put on every item of clothing in our backpacks, then we would consume every bit of wine we could get our hands on and finally we would bury ourselves in our newly acquired blanket and hope for a bit of sleep. It was a pretty good plan I thought and if nothing else would have provided some good photo ops. But, when we arrived back at camp that night, I spied the nice, cozy looking, A framed, wooden bungalows and casually inquired about the price. They could've probably cost an exhorbatant amount and I woulda been tempted to pay it, but luckily they were cheap and we were moved in within minutes! We slept warm and happily. The next day we awoke to low clouds and more cold drizzle. Luckily having a car and no reservations we felt quite free. We decided to leave Montenegro but were unsure where we wanted to go. We were still hoping for a mountain experience. Austria was our initial plan... Let's get the h$&@ outta here and head for the mountains in Austria we said without much thought. If you take a glimpse at a map, you will see that Austria is not so close to Montenegro. Not to mention that we will be up in Slovenia (austrias neighbor to the south) in a mere 5 days. Employing a little sense we opted out of the long trek to Austria and decided to explore Bosnia instead. We spent a few days in Sarajevo. Amazing to think that place was the center of a war within the last 20 years. Sarajevo is a beautiful mix of east meets west not unlike Istanbul but on a smaller scale. red roofed houses adorn the green mountains while a mix of minarets and chapels make up the skyline. Sarajevo was just the right speed for us and a great place to sit in a cafe with a pivo (beer), kafa (coffee) or cevapi (meatballs). As I write we are in a little town just north of Sarajevo called trevnik. We just inhaled our $2 plates of cevapi and are watching American movies on the tiny tv in our hotel. Tomorrow we head to Mostar where we hope to see some people jump off the famous bridge.

We miss Hrvatska: a quick update

Claire and I are hunkered down in an internet cafe, surrounded my Montengrin rugrats trying to shoot each other online. I'm wearing everything warm that I brought with me, sweater, pants, rainjacket. Claire also is sporting a lovely ensemble of warmth. Today, the thermometer in our rental VW Polo registered a chilly 9 degrees Celsius. To put that in perspective, yesterday, it was 32 degrees on the coast, and we were dripping with sweat in Dubrovnik. Living on vacation can take you to some crazy extremes sometimes.

We left Croatia (Hrvatska) yesterday at 11 and to say that the country was good to us is an understatement. A week and a half of beach time, swimming in the refreshing sea; hanging with Matt, Kasia, Olivia and Kasia's wonderful parents, and Jason and Ambika, and Kate; making and having dinners with aformentioned friends; Old Town's with marbed walkways and terracotta red roofs; cold draft beers (Pivo), clearly "the best thing in the world" when you are sun/sweat-drenched; Hobonitca (Octopus) and other offerings fresh from the sea; Climbing on Hvar Island; looking down on the spectacular walled Old Town of Dubrovnik. I could go on, but I won't. Our experience on the Croatian Coast is the stuff vacations are supposed to be made of. Claire and I will be talking about Croatia for a long time.

We've left the sea and headed to the mountains of Croatia's neighbor to the south. Our experience of Montegro thus far has been charming and bizarre and freezing and lovely. Last night, it was so cold in our tent that we had to retreat to the car for warmth. (We didn't pack for cold-weather camping.) We were planning on doing some backcountry exploration, but our gear is far from adequate. (We were imagining something similar to the Sierras in summertime; instead, we got Northern Minnesota in late fall.: cold, sprinkling, cloudy and grey.) Today we bought warm blankets and Claire acquired some shoes. We are ready for the cold (Did I mention it's cold?). We are hoping that the clouds subside to reveal the peaks that surround us, but at this point remain hidden from view.

This is fun. We are happy.

It has come to the point in our trip where we have lost all concept of time and day. You know you're on vacation when you have no clue what day it is and really have no real reason to know. We've been in Croatia for a while now (don't ask me how long...I just told you I have no idea!). We spent several days near a town called Sibenik with our friends Matt and Kasia and their family. Our days consisted of waking up to fresh bread brought by the bread truck man, eating Poland's (Kasia's family is Polish but they vacation in Croatia every summer) finest assortment of sausages, jumping off the pier into the warm and salty sea water, playing in the water, relaxing in the shade, snorkeling, hunting for octopus, reading, chatting, laughing, taking boat rides to small islands where we repeated all of the above mentioned activities (except for the bread truck...he can't make it to the island) and simply just being with good friends and living on vacation. Kasia's family were so welcoming and kind. On our last evening Kasia's dad made us the best octupus (known in these parts as habotnitsa) we had ever eaten, followed the next morning by a feast of a breakfast! We were sad to leave that little place we'd like to consider home (for the moment at least) but, we left. A beautiful drive down the coast took us through Split and many other small towns to a town called Drevnik where we took a ferry boat to Hvar island. Croatia is beautiful.
Hvar town is a cute little town definitely well occupied by tourists. While in Hvar, we spent our time sitting on steps watching the world go by whilst consuming multiple 2 litre bottles of Karlovacko, taking walks to find sweeping panoramic views of the town itself, making ridiculous poses to mimic street signs and climbing. If only we had had more time there to climb but alas, a traveler must move on. So it was back in the car for a nice journey down the scenic Croatian coast (with a short hop into Bosnia) and into Dubrovnik.
In Dubrovnik, Jij and I found ourselves without a plan for sleeping for the first time this trip! Last time we travelled together, that was our norm. So it was back to roaming the streets looking for the best place to stay. We met a nice man who seemed really excited about his place..."terratcia, panoramica, nice, nice place, parking, down stairs city to the right city, down stairs to the left beach (he didn't specify that it was down 392 stairs!!!)". Needless to say, he won us over and we stayed in his place. It was BEAUTIFUL, the view amazing, the room cute and everything we needed...the only downside were those THREE HUNDRED NINETY TWO steps especially if we decided to climb them in the heat of the day (99 degrees). The walled old town of Dubrovnik is amazing and beautiful to look at as well as walk around. The pictures will speak for themselves. In Dubrovnik, we found ourselved eating delicious and
reasonably priced seafood, once again sitting on steps or on our balcony drinking 2 litre bottles of beer, enjoying the view, and kayaking. I think we could have stayed in Dubrovnik for EVER but, again we moved on.
The Croatia portion of our trip will bring many fond memories. We were greatful to have spent it with good friends. Nastrovia to Jason, Ambika, Kate, Matt, Kasia, Olivia and Kasia's parents for helping create those fond memories. Let's do it again soon!
**Pictures to come later...

Living on Vacation is easy when...

• You get picked up at the airport
• You have a pool to sit next to (where you can simultaneousloy swim and hang your laundry to dry)
• You get a free glass of champagne upon arrival at your luxury hotel
• You get a great recommendation for a restaurant on a small street by the Pantheon and eat amazing pasta to go along with a liter of cheap but good wine
• There is a buffet breakfast and Claire brought her purse
• You have a map
• Your clothes are clean
• The internet is free and functional
• You don't feel like you HAVE to do anything really
• You are with Claire